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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” says a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.